A Local’s Bacaro Tour, Venezia

Bacaro tour Venezia

GUEST ARTICLE: A flicker of yellow light from a lantern down an obscure alley, a peeling painted sign reflecting in the still black water, a vibrant noisy crowd squeezed into a dim interior with a low ceiling of wooden beams – this is the Venetian aperitivo in the traditional bacaro.

Most travellers in Italy will be familiar with the legendary aperitivo – free-flowing prosecco, spritz by the dozen and, most importantly, free food. Starting from as early as 6pm, it’s a golden hour to meet with friends, snack on tramezzini and lots of pastry, and have circular conversations about where to go for dinner. In Venice, the aperitivo is even more special…

The Bacari Crawl

Students, i veci (old people), and workers all come together in the bacaro. A couple can be found on the main tourist drag, but to mingle with some non-English speakers you need to lose yourself in the quieter areas. There is obviously no guarantee of stumbling across the perfect atmospheric bacaro this way so with recommendations from a student friend in Venice, I’ve compiled a version of the standard student bacaro ‘crawl’ featuring a boat terrace, some risqué decoration and the tiniest interior that succeeds in containing all Venetian life.

Bacaro tour Venezia

Fondamenta Ormesini Tour

A whole evening can be spent meandering from bar to bar along this canal-side street. Begin at the side furthest from the station, named Fondamenta della Misericordia, where it branches off from the Rio di Noale. Pop into any bacaro that captures your imagination, and if the setting sun’s last rosy rays are still glinting on the water take your drink and plate of snacks outside and sit by the canal with your feet dangling over the water.

Highlights are:

Paradiso Perduto

A classic dark wooden interior offering a mouth-watering range of cicheti (little pieces of bread with toppings or other mini snacks, the Italian tapas) particularly featuring fried sea food. Order a plate of freshly fried gamberetti with your prosecco or spritz. Due to its reasonable prices and delicious food Paradiso Perduto has become extremely popular for dinner meaning places are booked up weeks in advance. But bacari are more traditionally for drinking so avoid the rush, grab your aperitivo and return outside to breathe in the damp salty air of Venice.

Paradiso Perduto (Fondamenta della Misericordi), Cannaregio 2540, tel. 041720581

Serving Hatch Bacaro

Seemingly nameless, you pass this bacaro after Paradiso, and will hopefully recognise it from the photo below. This tiny little bar is mainly on the list because of its potential for a sly practical joke played on a drunken friend. Some of the more traditional bacari have a serving hatch outside to avoid a crush at the metre long bar, but make sure you do pop inside this one and visit the tanks of stick insects, which shrewd visitors will realise are only visible as a figment of a very intoxicated imagination.

Bacaro tour Venezia

Al Timon

There are several intruiging stops along the way, but your last should be the unmissable Al Timon. Although the cicheti here are laden with intriguing flavours and the wine is good, the real draw is the boat ‘terrace’ on the canal outside. There’s a slightly-wider-than-comfortable step from pavement to boat, made all the more challenging when precariously balancing several glasses of prosecco and a plate of cicheti. It’s a memorable way to finish the evening sitting carefree cross-legged on a wooden boat swaying gently.

Osteria Al Timon (Fondamenta degli Ormesini), Cannaregio 2754 tel. 39 041 524 6066

Bacaro tour Venezia

The Rialto Tour

Hidden amongst the maze of streets surrounding the Rialto Bridge is a scattering of tempting softly-lit bars. Being a slightly more touristy area an evening drinking here will weigh a little heavier on the pocket, however some bacari are worth it.

Highlights are:

Cantina do Spade

This is a long-standing Venetian favourite serving typical local dishes such as sarde in saor, liver alla veneziana and baccalà. You can begin with an aperitivo here and then, if those cooking smells become too torturous, grab a table in their restaurant.

Cantina do Spade. San Polo, 859, 30125. Tel. +39 0415210583

Bacaro Jazz

Keep this place as a ‘one drink’ stop as the prices aren’t too kind, but visit to enjoy your drink beneath a ceiling strung with bras… all colours, all decorations, all sizes… (supposedly left by previous patrons but considering the number that’s hard to believe).

Bacaro Jazz, S. Marco, 5546, 30124, tel.041 528 5249

Erbaria

A student hotspot, this is actually a whole campo (square) whose now abandoned fruit and vegetable shops have been transformed into bars and restaurants. Take a drink outside and, as one Venetian saying goes, gaze at the reflections of the elegant palazzi in the Grand Canal and try to work out if their flickering movement is the fault of the water or the wine…

Visit bacari Naranzaria and Al Merca. Campo dell’Erbaria, Rialto

Something Special

One stand-alone bar is worth spending time in – Bacareto da Lele in the Campo dei Tolentini. You will be immersed in Venetian eccentricity in this diminutive interior. In fact most patrons choose to perch on the pavement edge or, boldly, on the steps of the piazza’s church such are the space limitations within (bacareto literally means little bacaro).

Il Bacareto da Lele (Campo dei Tolentini) Santa Croce, 183

Bacaro tour Venezia

 

 

Disclaimer: This article was written by our wonderful contributor Rebecca from the Italian-focused travel blog La Brutta Figura. You can also follow Rebecca’s adventures on Instagram and Facebook

Christina
Writer
Christina Sunneklep (b.1992) is a rather snap-happy Norwegian travel blogger. For the past few years, she's been winging it in Rome - now she's doing her best to conquer Glasgow, Scotland.

Need to get in touch? CHRISTINA@CAVAFORLUNCH.COM

4 Comments

  1. Maria June 26, 2017

    Beautiful photos, Lina! I love coming to your blog for lots of gorgeous travel inspo xx

    Reply
    • Christina June 26, 2017

      Thank you, Maria! I love to hear that!

      Reply
  2. Chiara June 27, 2017

    Ooh cicheti – my favourite! It wouldn’t quite be the same in Edinburgh, but I wish they did that kind of thing here. Great post, thanks for sharing!x

    Reply
    • Christina July 16, 2017

      I agree, it would be quite cool if they did sort of a similar thing here in Scotland x

      Reply

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